Keep the Culture: 3 Priceless Carnival Experiences

Carnival in Trinidad & Tobago is often seen by foreigners through the lens of dazzling costumes and high-priced, all-inclusive fetes that seem to do more excluding than we’d like. What if I told you some of the most meaningful Carnival experiences are budget-friendly—or at least, don’t require a premium wristband?

I’ve loved Carnival since childhood, long before I was old enough to party. The energy in the air, the stories passed down in my family, the cooking, the eating, and the sound of soca rolling in from distant music trucks—those moments alone leave me feeling fulfilled (and teary-eyed). That’s why I find it so interesting when people only experience the commercial side and assume that’s all there is.

Just recently, someone mentioned how overpriced they find Trinidad Carnival. I understand that 'overpriced' can suggest concerns about value, and while the cost can be significant, your experience ultimately depends on what you’re looking for. Carnival is layered and if your wish list revolves around premium fetes filled with foreign visitors, then yes, you’ll pay a premium price. Consider the target market, the decor, and the effort that goes into executing those events. If you want to tap into the heart of it all—its history, resistance, and raw energy—there are opportunities all around.

For me, the connection to Carnival runs deep. My family’s roots in Laventille, said to be the birthplace of steelpan, one of the cultural strongholds of the festival, means that they’ve witnessed its evolution firsthand. Maybe that’s why I cling to the more traditional events. I can’t forget the communities that helped shape Carnival’s legacy.

Laventille, like Carnival itself, is a symbol of resilience and creativity. To overlook its contributions is to overlook a vital part of the festival’s spirit.

Building a Traditional Carnival Itinerary

If you’re someone who wants to experience the soul of Carnival beyond the glitz and pretty mas, here are three events you shouldn’t miss:

1. Canboulay: The Fight for Freedom in the Streets
The re-enactment of the Canboulay Riots is one of the most powerful and moving experiences during Carnival. Held in the early hours of Carnival Friday, this event transports you back to the 1880s, when formerly enslaved people fought for the right to celebrate their culture. The name “Canboulay” comes from the French “cannes brûlées” (burnt cane), referencing the plantation fires that enslaved Africans were forced to put out.

When colonial authorities tried to suppress their drumming and gatherings, the people resisted—and that resistance became the foundation of what we know as Carnival today. Witnessing this re-enactment, with its torches, drums, and commanding performances, is a reminder that Carnival wasn’t given; it was fought for.

2. Pan: The Sound of a Nation
Steelpan is the only instrument invented in the 20th century, and it was born right in Laventille. In my opinion, no Carnival experience is complete without immersing yourself in pan culture.

A pan crawl—visiting different panyards in the lead-up to Panorama, is one of the best ways to do it. Watching players practice, hearing the layers of sound come together, and feeling the vibrations in your chest? There’s nothing like it. For some reason, I often find myself on the verge of tears when I listen closely. I should probably unpack that.

Pan wasn’t always celebrated the way it is now. My grandfather told me that in its early days, it was dismissed as “noise,” and panmen were criminalized for their involvement in the movement. Pan is another form of resistance. It’s proof that innovation thrives in the face of struggle.

3. J’Ouvert: The Raw, Unfiltered Carnival
J’Ouvert isn’t about looking pretty. It’s about liberation. Before the sun rises on Carnival Monday, the streets come alive with mud, paint, oil, and powder as revellers celebrate in a sea of colour and rhythm.

I’d say this is Carnival in its most authentic form, with no curation, rooted in the emancipation celebrations of the formerly enslaved. For example, the tradition of Jab Molassie—devils covered in oil or blue paint—symbolizes both rebellion and satire, mocking the very systems that once sought to control them.

I couldn’t miss 3canal’s 30th year of jouvay. The energy was the most raw I’d ever experienced and something I’ll never forget. For me, those moments were a reminder that while Carnival has evolved, its essence is still alive, and it will continue to live if we’re intentional about preserving it.

Choosing Your Carnival Experience

I’ve done my share of all-inclusives, and some have been unforgettable. Kes’ Tuesday on the Rocks in 2020? Impeccable sound, amazing food, and pure vibes. I’ve also found magic in more intimate and budget-friendly events like Welcome to Freetown, Tropic, and FREEdom Carnival.

Mas itself exists on a spectrum, offering everything from Traditional Mas and Ole Mas to Pretty Mas. Even within the popular Pretty Mas category, not every band is a luxury band—nor does it have to be. With a bit of research, you can find options that align with your budget and creative vision. Affordability is also subjective; it’s about knowing what you want and making informed choices.

I played with Spirit Mas, an all-inclusive band that offered great storytelling and a closing concert. I’m eager to explore others because to me, Carnival is about finding what truly resonates, not just following trends.

Tradition and Evolution

Carnival is for everyone, but participation requires intention. If you’re feeling priced out as a foreigner, take a step back and reassess. There’s a version of Carnival that fits you—you’ll just have to find it. Spending consciously doesn’t mean everything will be low-cost; it means researching, thinking independently, and spending with intention. It’s about making informed decisions that align with what you truly want from the experience.

It’s about living in harmony—between tradition and evolution, accessibility and exclusivity, being part of the diaspora and feeling deeply connected to home. Trinidad Carnival holds space for all of it, and that’s what makes it so special.